28/7/24

James and Janice had joined us the previous night and a fun filled night was had with them and Mark and Ana. Had to say goodbye to Mark and Ana, and slightly earlier than we had hoped. The wind was picking up and we had to get out of the harbour before it was too strong and too chaotic.

Long day on the water found a busy little, goat covered inlet , amongst the rocks, called Rovaer, where we rafted up against a Swedish couple who came over for a drink. She, Sylvia, makes men’s tights for the Swedish opera and ballet. Interesting, she was even involved in the making of some of ABBA’s tights. Random who you meet. Another challenging little bay to get in and out of.

It had been an 8-hour trip but we managed to get some sailing in. James and I practiced our knots whilst Janice and Chris, the reliable ones, managed the boat and the route.

Found a small, sheltered bay, Adnoy, a perfect place to anchor. Unfortunately, one of the residents didn’t think so and moved us on from in front of his house as “it would disturb his evening swim”. Precious! Regardless we set our first anchor further up and settled down to a G&T, when Janice saw ‘Little Quirky’ floating away. The knot had come undone, not Chris’s of course but a German one! Chris took an afternoon dip and brought her home.

Went to shore for a walk. Got a little lost in some beautiful woodlands, full of moss-covered rocks and hobbit type scenery. In the middle of nowhere we came across a cabin with a lovely young couple who had just inherited the holiday house from his grandma. They were quite surprised to see us and kindly pointed us on our fairytale walk home. “Through the little white gate, across the swampy marsh, through the dark, green forest and look for the grey gravel path which will lead you to the water”. Believe it or not it was just like that.

29/7/24

Headed up the Lysefjorden Fjord to a place at the end called Lysebotn. I can’t describe to you how beautiful it was. The height of the rocks around you and the sheer drop into the water was incredible. It was quiet and absolutely breathtaking. The photos only give half the story and I would highly recommend a visit.

Lysebotn is a tiny place full off backpackers and hikers camping in the surrounding fields. One shop which doubles as a bar and café. Had dinner there, menu choice one of 2 pizzas ,so ordered both and some beer. Had a wonderful walk around the waterfront and waterfalls.

Sailing back down the fjord was just as spectacular and half way down is a roadless hamlet called Florli, accessible only by ferry or on foot. It has the longest wooden Stairway in the world, 4444 steps up the mountain. We tried to pull in but it was too windy and the berths weren’t big enough. Managed to stop for a few minutes in the ferry stop and get a photo of me on the stairs but 6 were all I managed.

Sailed on to a little place called Forsand. A quick stop for provisions at the small supermarket called Joker.. We were helped to tie up by a very nice gentleman, who also owned the holiday house, served in the shop and ran the marina. As we were paying for the food we asked about red wine, which he informed us he wasn’t allowed to sell. As we were leaving, he pulled James aside and said he had some wine in his office if we would like some. 5 minutes later he appeared with 2 bottles which he threw to James. Fortunately they were plastic. Very funny these Norwegians and very hospitable.

As Chris was getting ready to untie, a young couple sitting next to the boat, asked why the boat was called Quirky. After explaining it was named after our name they quickly said, “ ours too”. They were Quirk’s from Baltimore. Who would have thought!!!

As a stop over before our long dash back to Kristiansand, we spent the night at Amoy. Moored alongside with the pontoon on one side and rocks far too close on the other. Chris described it as another buttock clenching experience to get in and out and a bit of a sleepless night in between, just in case we drifted.

Survived that ordeal and set off the next morning at 6:00am not reaching Kristiansand until 11:20 that evening. A long bumpy trip and James had to have a little lay down as seasickness tried to rear its ugly head. Spent the whole day on land, no boating today, breakfast and coffee was a treat, I think especially for James and Janice who I am sure were glad to get off the boat. They took the bikes and cycled around the city whilst Chris and I did some onboard chores.

Left Kristiansand, the sea was very calm and flat, and the weather was warm, Goodbye Norway. The first hour was going down narrow channels with spectacular little houses and waterways- could certainly live here, at least in the Summer. ( only about 3 hours of daylight in winter!!!}

**(Completely fell in love with Norway. The scenery was spectacular and everywhere we went the people were so friendly and went out of their way to help us. Will definitely come back.)**

2/8/24

As we had a bit of a deadline to get to Gothenburg we headed straight there but broke the trip up stopping at Skagen, the tip of Denmark, a large fishing port as well as a public marina. It was 8:00pm Friday night and the place was heaving. Boats were rafted up 2-3 deep. We figured they would have been in by now and we were leaving early so all good. On shore there were packed restaurants, live music and smartly dressed people milling around. We went straight to eat, a little underdressed but the fish and chips went down a treat. Although we did get food envy over Janice’s fish and shrimp burger!

**The only place we could find to fit said reserved, so James very kindly went ashore and turned the sign around.**

A passing Norwegian asked us why we didn’t have a flag up? Ours hasn’t arrived from Jersey yet. (Where she is registered) We asked if it was important and he said we should, “otherwise they will think you are German”. Apparently that is not good! ( agree) We now have a tiny Union Jack hanging from the mast.

3/8/24 Saturday

Found an old fortress that was closing in 40 minutes. They very kindly let us in for free and we had a quick look around. It was built in 1901, and finished in 1907, in anticipation of an attack that may occur after the split in the union between Norway and Sweden that occurred in 1905. They used it in World War 2 to house soldiers, but all the guns were moved out on to other archipelagos’.

4/8/24

James and Janice left today and Chris and I sailed, on our own for the first time, across to Varberg in Denmark.

James and Janice

Varberg and 505 Sailing

Mark and Ana